Hindu Pilgrimage in Siem Reap

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Story and Photos by Jonas Leixander

When it comes to Hinduism, I can  only think of one country, and that is India. Such a colorful religion, filled with unbending faith, vibrancy and mystical mantras chanted by its devotees.

For the first thousand years of Khmer history, Hindu Kings ruled the land and Hinduism was one of the  Empire's official religion. Scholars  believed that Buddhism has existed in Cambodia since as early as 3rd  century BC, but not widely practiced.  Until its induction on 13th Century AD, Theravada Buddhism was proclaimed as the country’s official religion.

“Empires inevitably fall, and when they do, history judges them for the legacies they leave behind.” 

- Noah Feldman

While even though that Hinduism is no longer the religion of Cambodia, the influence it has created left an impressive mark for the locals, as they continue to exercise long-old traditions such as; New Year, weddings, funerals, Pchum Ben Day and the use of astrology to find auspicious dates for important events.

There are only two temples that exist in Southeast Asia dedicated to Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. According to Hindus, the first one is an Angkorian temple named “Prasat Phnom Krom,” built under the reign of King Yasovarman, while the second one, is a 9th-century Prambanan Temple complex that can be found in Yogyakarta, central Java (Indonesia). Largest Hindu Temple site in Indonesia, and one of the biggest in Southeast Asia.

I am always attracted in learning new things, and by accepting an invitation for a journey that is totally new to me, is more than a reward. I cannot recall any more of the times I’ve been to the City of Angkor while joining group tours, and 90% of the time, the Tour Guide’s focal point is more about Buddhism. This time is different. It’s not an ordinary tour, it’s unique, it’s special and I cannot wait to absorb more about their religious beliefs and practices.

A big shout out for Mr. Sivam Raman for the generous invitation to join a 3-day pilgrimage tour, dedicated to Hinduism. I have completed my Yatra in Yasotharapuram, Khambuja Desam or in English language, Siem Reap Yatra (Pilgrimage) Experience.

I have learned a lot from this Tour, which I will truly cherish for a long time.

Hindu Pilgrimage in Siem Reap - Day 1 - “The Day”

The group arrived in Siem Reap from Malaysia later than expected. One by one they appeared and we’ve escorted them straight to the vehicle. Making sure that all their luggage is accounted and packed up, we didn’t waste too much daylight and trail the highway for Phnom Kulen.

As a welcome remark, my friend Sivam, greeted everyone in Tamil dialect. The only thing I picked up was, “Today, is a special day! We’re all heading to a sacred mountain, to honor Lord Shiva!” After the formality, we served breakfast, drinks and cold towel to all passengers. 

I was introduced by my friend to the tour leader. He knew that I am in the tour to observe and offered me with some help, about Hinduism and the importance of their Phnom Kulen visit to their Siem Reap journey. I've learned that Hindus has their own Divine Trilogy, called Trimurti (equivalent to the Holy Trinity in Christianity). In Hinduism, Trimurti are personified by the triad of deities; Brahma as the Creator, Vishnu as the Preserver, and Shiva as the Destroyer. Though they may hold different functions and in no particular order, when all three deities incarnate into a single being, it will be known as Dattatreya. Revered as the first "Lord of Yoga" with mastery of Tantra (techniques). His pursuit of simple life, kindness to all, sharing of his knowledge and the meaning of life during his travels, was followed by other monks to guide the people.

Ours seem long conversation was put into a halt, when we arrived at the base of the mountain just on time before they close the gate (11:00 am). We all went out of the bus to catch some fresh air, interact with other tourists and take some photo. After purchasing the entrance ticket for $20 per person, we then proceed with our tour. The road is not bad at all. Flat, even though it’s not paved. 

100% Wild Bananas from Phnom Kulen

Along the way, we made a short pit stop to grab some Wild Red Bananas. They were huge, all 100% natural and with No Preservatives. The group enjoyed the fruit feast as we continue our journey way up to the mountain, while chanting and singing praises for God Shiva.

30 minutes after our pit stop, at last we reached our destination, the Phnom Kulen. It was once being called Mahendraparvata, which means (Mountain of Great Lord Indra) and was considered as a Holy Mountain to both Hindus and Buddhists pilgrimage. Mahendraparvata, was known as an isolated chain of small mountain plateau that stretches for about 40 km in distance. Geologically, Mahendraparvata was believed to be made of pure sandstone and supplied other Angkorian Temples with its abundance. 

Our tour guide assembled the group for some instructions. People with disabilities were strongly advised to ride Motodop on the way down the mountain only, (but not to ride back up to the car park) and avoid the slippery slopes of the trail.

We stride down the hill and after 15 minutes of walking, we reached the base, or the top part of the Water Fall which is divided into 2 parts. The top portion which is perfect for picnickers and families, and the lower part recommended for thrill seekers who got strong legs for climbing.

    

It’s about 12 noon on a mid-March month and the sun is staring down at us, but we don’t mind at all. The water gushing on my feet is filled with soothing and relaxing vibes to quench the heat instantly. I was watching the group from the far and I witnessed that all are praying before entering the water. I can also trace from their faces the contentment of being in the place. 

A big warning sign to all Thrill Seekers. 

The first part (cleansing) of the ceremony is over and it’s time for us to leave the waterfall for Preah Ang Thom Pagoda (the same place where you will find the giant reclining Buddha). The procession walks us back uphill to the car park and climbed some more before reaching the monastery. We stopped by at the gate for a while to rest, and bought some offerings like flowers and incense. I am sure the uphill climb is a torture for others and I personally felt sorry for those who got knee and foot problems. I did offer some assistance to some while climbing the steps, but they refused to accept. Amazed with their faith and persistence, I remained my distance and trailed the pack from the back, preparing myself to jump for any rescue if someone fails, but fortunately, none. They all reached the top, smiling at each other while catching their breaths. 

 Preah Ang Thom Pagoda (main entrance)

Giant Linga  at Preah Ang Thom Pagoda 

                   

The monastery was surrounded by “Kru Khmer” (faith healers), monks, humongous rock boulders, altars, water well, and Hindu prominent figures; Giant Linga and Ganesh, the Elephant God in Hindu Religion. 

 Preah Ang Thom Pagoda (the same place where you will find the giant reclining Buddha)

The group gathered around the Giant Linga with a praying hand, and then after, they turned themselves to Ganesh and offered flowers around the altar. The ladies lined up all of their offers such as gee, milk, turmeric, and other expensive spices on the table top. The Tour Leader rang his bell, lead the chant and others followed. The big ceremony has finally begun.

After the service is over, we all drive back to Kbal Spean or “River of the Thousand Lingas” (5 minutes away from the car park). In here, our Tour Guide, brought us to the site, showed the artifacts and carvings under the clear waters. It was so amazing! 

At past 5:00 pm, we all rode the bus back to town, stopped by along the way to buy some palm sugar, enjoyed their first dinner in Siem Reap town, and head back the hotel to check in and rest.

Here is mini video of the whole ritual

Hindu Pilgrimage in Siem Reap - Day 2 - “The Magnificent Angkor Wat”

On the second day of The Yatra, I sat with the Tour leader during breakfast and talked about yesterday’s highlight by recalling some of the happy moments.

After breakfast, we all went to buy Entrance Ticket valid for a full day tour and brought them to see important temples connected to Hinduism and Buddhism.

We first entered Angkor Thom, considerably as one of the famous City of Angkor with an area size of 9 square kilometers. From the east gate, we entered The Bayon Temple to feel the warm smiles on Buddha Faces. Moving to the next spot, we’ve visited Baphoun, Phimeanakas, Elephant Terrace and Leper King Terrace. With all those walking and climbing can be surely tiring, but for these not-so-young-folks, it's nothing. They are all enjoying!

The heat is torturing us and everybody deserves a break with a fresh cold coconut juice to quench our thirst. We also fed ourselves with Bananas, which is good to avoid leg cramps.

It’s time for Lunch and all of us head to a spot, under a big tree with a lot of shade for picnic. We started to distribute our packed lunch cooked by a Khmer Chef. We had such a good time, enjoying our delicious lunch, and while enjoying each other’s company.

After the meal, we rest for a while before heading back and continue the afternoon tour. Our first stop was at Ta Phrom Temple. One of the famous sites in Angkor City, popularized by the movie Tomb Raider. Then, we all proceed to Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda and Ta Keo.

It took us more than 2 hours to visit all of these beautiful temples, but this day will not be over without visiting the main highlight, the Magnificent Angkor Wat. A perfect representation of Mount Meru, the home of the Hindu Gods, the central tower of Angkor Wat symbolizes the five peaks of the mountain, while its surrounding walls are the mountain ranges and its ocean. Unlike most Khmer temples, Angkor Wat faces West. The skin walls of this magnifique creation are filled with Bas Reliefs, with an estimated of total 8 Hindu Stories.

Scholars believed that Angkor Wat started its massive construction at the beginning of the 12th century under the order of King Suryavarman II. This engineering Goliath requires an estimated 800,000 pair of hands and legs from workers who helped construct an architectural feat that stands through time.

The Inner walls of the outer gallery offered large-scale scenes from the Hindu epics of the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, while the Western gallery shows the Battle of Lanka (in Ramayana, where Rama defeated Ravana) and the Battle of Kurukshetra (in the Mahabharata, the destruction of both clans; Kaurava and Pandava).

The Southern gallery showcases the historical procession of Suryavarman II, while on the Eastern gallery depicts one of the most celebrated scenes, the Churning of the Sea of Milk. In the Northern gallery, you will see the story of Krishna's victory over Bana and the battle between the Hindu gods and Asuras, while in the North-West and South-West corner corridors will witness the smaller-scale scenes connected to Ramayana, or the life of Krishna.

Very entertaining, yet it’s time to leave the complex as it starts to get dark. We lead the group out of the complex and greeted us with a sun-setting sight. The group stopped for a while, look towards the setting sun and prayed. I guess, they were saying thanks for the blessings they’ve received throughout the whole day. We arrived at the hotel a bit later than expected due to traffic. Consumed by the mysticism of our tour, the group ended again their day filled not only with happiness but also satisfaction in their hearts.

Hindu Pilgrimage in Siem Reap - Day 3 – “Phnom Krom”

On the last day of our Yatra, both Tour Leader and Tour Guide told me that we’re all going up again on the mountain, but this time at Phnom Krom. There are 3 significant mountains in Siem Reap, all related to Hinduism; Phnom Krom, Phnom Bakheng and Phnom Bok. 

Phnom Krom is located about 12 to 13 kilometers southwest of Siem Reap town. This rocky mountain stands of a nearly 500 feet, with a clear 360-degree view of Siem Reap. On top is a temple named “Prasat Phnom Krom" and according to the local legend, the rock was blessed by the monkey God Hanuman during his hunt for medicine. Dated at the end of the 9th century during the reign of King Yasovarman (889 A. D. -910 A.D.), it was dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma.

The temple was made of sandstone and has its own bas reliefs, but the details have been lost to erosion. The temple has a total of three towers sitting in a row, on top of a big stone-platform, following on a north to south formation. According to scholars, the South tower is for God Brahma, while the Central tower is for God Shiva and the North tower is for God Vishnu.

Even though that this temple is dedicated to the 3 Hindu Gods, they only pay respect to God Brahma. Here they sang and chant prayers and offered flowers and incense honoring his name. After the ceremony, we all explore the mountain top surrounding, and our Tour Guide showed us the way to see the best panoramic view of Tonle Sap Lake.

We all went back to the bus and treated the group for lunch at West Baray or, Baray Teuk Thalia in Khmer dialect. After 35 minutes of travelling, we arrived at our destination and our Tour Guide huddled us on top of the main dam. We guided the group at the edge and from there, he pointed us in a direction of a Hindu temple site named the West Mebon, sitting on top of an artificial island in the middle of the lake.

Constructed in the 11th Century during the leadership of King Suryavarman I, West Baray was later completed under the reign of King Udayadityavarman II. It has a rectangular shape and with an approximate size of nearly 8 km long and 2 km wide. It is the largest baray at Angkor, and it's connected to Kulen Mountain by Siem Reap River.

According to some scholars, West Baray was constructed to uphold two major functions; first, as a massive tank of water to irrigate the canals for agriculture purposes, second; it provides a symbolic function to serve the vast earthly depiction of the Hindu Sea of Creation, being West Mebon temple as the heart of the Baray.

Trailing down the steps, we guided our group to their own huts surrounded with hammocks and mattresses. The group finds it very comfortable, we sat and waited for our order. A modest meal yet tasty. It’s a set meal with a bowl of rice, sauteed mixed vegetables, grilled river fish and grilled native chicken, is definitely a treat!

After the lunch is over, and with a stunning calm view surrounding, and a slight cool breeze of air, will definitely put yourself at rest with almost no effort.

When everybody is up and fully recharged, we all went back to town for souvenir shopping. We brought them to the Psah Chas or Siem Reap Old market and other specialty stores within the area. Surprisingly, I find the guys better than the ladies on bargaining. Some of them even showed me what they bought for their kids and wife. At least, all are happy with their goodie bags filled with souvenir for their loved ones back home.

My whole Yatra experience is finally complete and rich of good memories! I managed to ask some and they too had a great time. They’ve even added that they will come back again with their own family, to repeat the same journey.

Parting each way and not knowing if I will see them again, the group gave me their blessing, which I truly appreciate! Now, I understand what Hinduism is, and its connection to Siem Reap.

I have learned a lot from this Tour, which I will truly cherish for a long time.

A big shout out to our Tour Guide and Tour Manager, Mr. Sivam Raman. Your personalized service is truly wonderful. 

As a fan, and who also conducted customer service for many years, yours is truly remarkable and genuine! Until our next visit!